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marți, 16 decembrie 2014

Buenavista







Povestea se cere continuata, stiu si momentan am ramas cu restanta. Daca timpul ar avea si un buton de "expand", ar fi atat de simplu totul (cliseu, recunosc, dar un adevar adevarat). Noi am ajuns si in nordul insulei si bine am facut. Am gasit un orasel absolut superb, care zic eu se incadreaza perfect in definitia cuvantului "pitoresc".



Buenavista del Norte. O comunitate mica, aparent insufletita doar de localnici (ne-am exersat spaniola si am abuzat la extrem vocabularul restrans pe care il detinem:)), cu un aspect foarte diferit de zona turistica. In fiecare zi a sederii noastre, la aproximativ ora 12:00, un norisor cenusiu si foarte jos facea o tura si improspata aerul cu o ploaie scurta si calduta.


Urmarea acestor ploi e vegetatia, diferita de zona sudica, mai abundenta si cu specii mai diverse. Fiind si sezonul ploios, dealurile si crestele erau inverzite si mirosea a curat, o placere. Ne-am plimbat in lung si-n lat pe cele cateva stradute si am avut parte de casute frumoase, tot soiul de mici magazinase (cu un program specific spaniol, in asa fel incat ne era foarte greu sa ne sincronizam cu orele in care erau deschise), plantatii de banani, un teren de golf cu priveliste inspre ocean sau vechi biserici ale primilor misionari, acum incuiate si arasite. Intr-adevar o priveliste exotica, cu iz colonial.
Am descoperit si un fruct miraculos, papaya, despre care stiam, dar nu-l gustasem niciodata. Intr-un magazin, o doamna simpatica ne-a explicat ca papaya este foarte sanatos pentru stomac, deoarece contine papaina, o enzima care se gaseste si in sucul gastric si favorizeaza o digeste usoara.


Cele cateva zile petrecute aici au fost la propriu o gura de aer proaspat si relaxare (din aceea de pensionar, cu dormit pana tarziu, uitat la canale canareze sau spaniole, gatit, plimbari). Ba chiar m-am simtit inspirata de toti cactusii si micile reptile care se delectau cu fructele teposilor si am pictat o sacosa de bumbac.








EN: Long time no writing! I was thinking that it would be very useful if time had an "expand button". I know it's a cliche, but it seems that days are shorter in winter and I feel like slowing down and doing less. Anyway, I promised the story will go on, so here it is.
We headed to the north of the island, to Buenavista del Norte, a small and picturesque town, inhabited mostly by locals. So, we had to practice our Spanish and abuse the 15 words vocabulary we own:)) But it was worthy, because we discovered a truly beautiful location, with a different vegetation and more fresh air. These were a consequence of the rain, which in north was generous. So generous, that in the five days we were there, it rained every day, precisely at the same hour in the afternoon.
We really enjoyed our time here, and spent it so relaxing : long walks on the narrow streets, admiring all sort of strange flowers (bloomed in the middle of November), banana plantations (!), the furious ocean, with high waves, eating one of the most amazing and healthy fruits, papaya and just resting in a quiet place.

duminică, 30 noiembrie 2014

Looking For The Summer


Plecati in cautarea verii, suntem mereu conectati cu "acasa", cu ce se intampla in Romania, cu oamenii frumosi si dragi care, desi sunt departe, ne trimit gandurile bune peste ocean. Si stiu ca acolo ninge si se simte apropierea Sarbatorilor de iarna (aici sunt semne mai putine si daca ne indepartam de zonele aglomerate, nici macar o reclama legata de Craciun:). Asa ca m-am pus pe treaba si am pictat cateva ornamente pentru pomul de Craciun, asa, ca sa imi amintesc atmosfera.


Anul trecut au fost "domnisoarele cochete", anul acesta le-am creat perechi, "haiducii curajosi".


Le-am pictat pe terasa insorita, privind inspre ocean, la 25 de grade. Si ma amuzam gandindu-ma ca am putea impodobi si noi un palmier (un cactus parca nu s-ar potrivi:)



Bijuurile, tricourile si sacosele pe care le aveam deja pictate s-au odihnit cateva zile la malul oceanului, in Spaghetti Bay, locul despre care am mai scris.

 Am avut si o "taraba", unde Adela, un personaj-om minunat, pe care am cunoscut-o aici, printre curajosii care stau la cort sau in locuinte-pesteri isi prezenta colierele. Asa ca ne-am combinat foarte usor si le-am oferit turistilor care vizitau zona o mostra de arta .


Asa arata comunitatea oamenilor liberi din La Caleta (straini sau localnici, care au ajuns pe insula si nu si-au dorit hotel sau cazare de lux, ci s-au hoatarat sa isi cunoasca limitele infruntand si savurand natura Canarelor).

Viata are un ritm foarte lent pentu ei si se imparte intre bai in ocean, pregatit mancarea si cea mai importanta activitate: procurarea apei potabile. Aici nu sunt izvoare sau rauri, doar oceanul, sarat, iar clima e uscata. Niciunul nu se plange, dar exista si un pret pentru un peisaj spectaculos.












Am avut si noi intentia sa ne mutam cu cortul pe coasta, pentru o saptamana, cel putin, pana cand am trecut printr-o patanie destul de ciudata, care ne-a schimbat perspectiva.
  Experienta cu nomazii l-a costat pe unul dintre noi un stafilococ ciudat, de zona tropicala, care abia astepta sa se cazeze in zgarieturile daruite de cactusi. "Victima" a numit bacteria "muscatura de Caleta", dupa numele localitatii. Nu a fost singurul care a patit-o, pentru ca si cei care locuiau acolo se luptau cu infectia. Ciudatenia prolifereaza in zonele calde, unde apa lipseste si le da batai serioase de cap celor pe care ii atinge. Un localnic ne-a sfatuit sa mergem in nord (zona pe care n-am apucat sa o vizitam, dar despre care stim ca are altfel de vegetatie, izvoare si ploua destul de des), pentru ca la frig si apa dulce, infectia va da inapoi.
 Asa ca povestea va merge mai departe si drumul, pare-se, spre nord


EN:
Being away in such a far place, which by chance is a tropical one, means that what happens home is also very far. Like so is the snow which recently covered Romania, the minus temperatures or even the Christmas comercials that are all over now. But still, our dear ones keep us in touch with the country and send us good vibes. I felt like I want to paint something specific for the winter holidays and created these Christmas tree decorationes. They gave me such a feeling of fresh snow, although they were crafted in a warm place, with ocean view and 25 degrees Celsius weather:)
Part of the items I've created found their place on a small table, next to other handmade necklaces, somewhere on the shore, in the Spaghetti Bay. Adela was nice enough to arrange and watch them, so that tourists passing by would have a small art display they could enjoy.
She is living in this place since 5 weeks, along with other free people, tourists or locals, who decided they want time off from the fuss. Their days pass by slow ("tranquilla" is the master verb here), between baths in the ocean, cooking and the most important activity: bringing fresh water.
Nature is spectacular in this place and maybe a little harsh, for humans, that is. We found this on our skin (ok, his skin, cause so far mine is intact), when contracted a bacteria. It seemes that this stafilococ likes warm, dry places. It gets in the open wounds (even a small scratc), infects them and than eats through flesh (quite ugly). But locals told us that if you go in a colder area, such as the north, where there is more fresh water, it will bea easily to cure.
So, our adventure goes on, towards the shown dirrection:)

miercuri, 26 noiembrie 2014

Deep Dive

Nu stiu cum se face, dar am pictat scoici care seamana mai degraba cu bomboanele (nu ca as pofti, nu sunt eu mare fan dulciurele, altele decat ciocolata neagra). Si o testoasa care are un singur gand: sa se infrupte din zaharurile colorate:) Oricum, la clima de aici nu am cum sa pictez decat imagini colorate, insorite, acvatice. Ai zice ca oceanul iti intra sub piele, cu sarea si nisipul negru si iti transforma gandurile.


Am ajuns in alta parte de insula, tot pe tarm, in El Medano. Un loc superb, un fel de Sighisoara la ocean. O plaja intinsa, cu un nisip negru, acoperit de un strat fin de nisip auriu, care creeaza niste modele frumoase cand sunt spalate de valuri.


Localitatea e micuta, un amestec de turisti si localnici, dar linistit, fara prea multe magazine, fara localuri unde esti tras de maneca, cu o zarva placuta,  care nu depaseste sunetul valurilor.


Ba chiar am intalnit si artizani care isi vand creatiile pe faleza, lucru care m-a incurajat. In statiunile mai mari nu poti face asta fara avize si autorizatii, care sunt mai greu de obtinut. Si oriunde priveai in jur, copii, de toate varstele, care se jucau si cantau. Locul asta mi-a lasat o senzatie placuta, din aceea de "mai venim".




O specie de pasare locala, care arata foarte comic cu ciocul foarte lung si pasi repezi...


Apoi, ca sa continuam pe aceeasi directie boema, am vizitat o alta plaja, in Las Galletas (in traducere libera "biscuitii"). Liniste si aici, oameni putini, iar seara ne-am bucurat de un concert live la baruletul de pe plaja.

Se pare ca e viata pentru toate gusturile pe insula, iar oamenii care ajung aici, nu ar merge mai departe. Sa fie oare primavara de vina? :)

EN:    It turns out that somehow, in a mysterious and tricky way, the ocean gets under your skin and to your brain and triggers a metamorphosis in your thoughts. How would I otherwise explain that all the things I'm painting here are wattery, sunny and colourful? The turtle was a must, because people here dive and swim with them. For now, I'm not really ok with underwater (need to solve this, cause I'm pisces and it's strange), so I've chosen to paint it:))
We went on along the beach and found this beautiful place, called El Medano. It's a small city, a mixture of tourists and locals, peaceful and quite, whith few shops which look chic, some small restaurants, with delicious and plentyfull food. Really the place where you want to come back (that's why we chose to stay overnight, just like that:) along the beach there where handmade artists selling their creations and this was so good to see.
And to keep up with the hippie spirit, we visited another special place, Las Galletas (it means "the buiscuits"). Here, we enjoyed some drinks at a nice beach-bar, where in the evening we danced on live music, sourrounded by the ocean waves and the breeze.
It feels that here, on the island, there's life for all tastes and the people who arrive get caught by spring and never want to move on:)

miercuri, 19 noiembrie 2014

Guanche




Putin cate putin, incepem sa descoperim ca partea de insula pe care am ajuns e doar o bucatica din "Paradis" si locul are o istorie interesanta in spatele nebuniei turistice de la malul oceanului.
Asa am aflat despre populatia indigena, "guanches", a caror origine e destul de controversata. Nu am reusit sa ajungem la muzeu, dar am accesat sursa de intelepciune a secolului 21, google. Si am avut o surpriza placuta sa descopar ceramica pe care au lasat-o in urma. Cumva mi-a amintit de cultura Cucuteni si la fel ca si ei, guanches nu cunosteau roata, dar au creat niste piese deosebite si un sistem de simboluri complex.
 Cele trei cercuri concentrice reprezinta soarele si m-am gandit ca ar arata frumos pirogravate pe semintele culese tot de aici (al caror nume inca il caut:)
Azi am gasit si o carte despre insulele Canare, unde e prezentata cultura Guanches si abia astept sa o savurez (in spaniola, ne-am gandit sa exersam limba, care, scrisa, mi se pare destul de usor de descifrat)


EN: Little by little we find out that there's more to this island than just shops and tourists. It was actually inhabited since the old times and the indigenous population is called "guanches". Their origin is controversial and since we didn't go to the museum, I tried to find out more from googlwe, wherelse:) Searching for photos about them, I saw their pottery, beautiful and very complex. It reminded me of Cucuteni, a romanian primitive culture, which without knowing the wheel (just like the guanches), created astonishing pieces of clay. I felt inspired by these findings, so I chose the solar symbol (three concentric circles) to wood burn on these seeds, handpicked from a local tree (which I'm trying to identify).
Today we found a spanish book about the Canarian islands which I can't wait to read (it will be a good practice for my Spanish:))










duminică, 16 noiembrie 2014

The Other Half






Un fluturas. Pe aici sunt multi, de tot felul, de parca n-am fi la o luna jumatate distanta de Craciun:) De fapt peisajul n-are nicio legatura cu ideea de Sarbatori de Iarna pe care o aveam in Romania. Intr-adevar, magazinele au inceput sa se imbrace cu podoabe, am vazut chiar si o macheta de Mos Cracun (!)

Dar in momentul in care ajungem pe plaja, uitam instant in ce luna suntem. Ba chiar si ziua si anul, pentru ca e un soi de duminica permanenta.


Zilele trecute am fost in El Puertito. O bucatica de plaja splendida, cu locuinte construite pe faleza sau chiar in stanca, in care daca lasi geamul deschis ai toate sansele sa pescuiesti in sufragerie.


Aici sunt turisti mai putini si peisajul mai salbatic. Am facut un picnic minunat, iar apoi baietii au facut snorkling, in cautare de vietuitoare marine. In "Portulet"vin si vasele cu turisti, unde se scufunda pentru a inota cu pestisori colorati si testoase.






Oceanul are pregatit si un "spectacol"cu un fel de geizer care se se formeaza de fiecare data cand se sparge un val. Bieinteles ca s-a lasat cu sedinta foto:))

EN: With all the butterflies hoovering around you almost forget that it's the middle of November. It's just the shops who decorated their windows that remind me Christmas is around the corner:) What a strange feeling, to know somewhere inside that it's the "cold" season, but all your senses are telling you that you're enjoying endless summer days. We read about the history of the Canaries Islands and even in the old times people wrote about the pleasent climate which gives you the feeling that you'll stay forever.
We found another beautiful place, "El Puertito", a small piece of beach, where the houses are built on the edge of the ocean and even some carved in the rocks. I thought that when the waves are tall, you can fish from the livingroom:)
We had a picnic here and then the guys went snorkling, to find the turtles and little colourful fish.
What to say: another day in Paradise.

joi, 13 noiembrie 2014

Twin Souls


E firesc atunci cand esti inconjurat de albastru (fie el oceanul, cu nuantele lui turcoaz sau cerul, de un azur limpede), sa ai tendinta sa il pui peste tot. Probabil o buna perioada de acum inainte o sa imbratisez "clisee" si voi picta de soare si de apa :)


Ne-am luat in serios roul de exploratori si in fiecare zi batem kilometri de-a lungul tarmului (momentan nu ne putem dezlipi de valuri si briza sarata). Desi e soare, care la primul contact cu pielea pare amenintator, temperatura e in jur de 25 de grade Celsius, adica o primavara superba.


Am trecut printr-o rezervatie de cactusi, impanzita de tot soiul de teposi si plante ciudate, cu frunze carnoase si suculente (ne-am promis ca de cum o sa intalnim o librarie, o sa cautam un determinator de plante din flora locala). Ba chiar am putut manca din fructele de cactus, care cresc din abundenta (la noi in supermarket am platit 8 lei ca sa gustam unul:))

 Si de sus, de pe creasta am avut o surpriza placuta: jos, de-a lungul tarmului, se zareau un soi de casute care semanau a sat african, grote locuite si corturi colorate. Spaghetti Bay, asa numesc localnicii zona si e un soi de "rezervatie"pentru cei mai boemi dintre turisti.



Am coborat inspre plaja si am stat de vorba cu niste personaje foarte interesante. Unii dintre ei stateau de luni bune acolo, altii de abia sosiera si parca n-ar mai fi plecat. Au curatat zona, au amenajat un barulet boem, standuri cu diverse lucrusoare facute manual, din piele, lemn, un satic dragut, cu oameni prietenosi, care pentru turistii care vin cu catamaranul in zona sunt un soi de ciudatenie pozabila.

Relieful arata minunat si o data ajunsi pe plaja ne-a cuprins o senzatie de liniste, totul a stat, ca la inceputuri.

E uimitor cum la cativa kilometri distanta, pe aceeasi insula, poti gasi doua lumi: cea aglomerata, construita, unde toata lumea incearca sa iti vanda, sa se vanda, sa iti ofere, sa te incarce, unde totul in jur vuieste, bazaie si bucatica de Rai, unde valurile sunt soundsytem si doar natura are de oferit.


EN: We decided to interract with the island like the old times explorers: just walk around it, up and down and all over, to discover places and people. That's how we arrived in a beautiful place, which the locals call "Spaghetti Bay" (couldn't find out yet why:)
Here, the people who wanted to run away from the fuss, are camping, some of them in tents, others in caves or in palm-tree hand built cottages. They created together a beautiful "village": they cleaned the garbage, built a small caffee, they sell their handmade stuff, of leather, wood or natural materials and leave in common. Some of them have been there for some months, some just arrived and feel like they will live there forever.
We stopped and talked to these interesting people, with many diffrent stories, who just enjoy life and feel free.
It's amazing how you cand find two diffrent worlds, in a couple of kilometres range: the built one, with restaurants and people who try to sell you stuff, to offer you stuff, where noises shout at you and the chill one, with wave sounds and only nature who offers you beauty (and a little catus here and there to remaind you not to loose yourself:)
We'll probably spend some days there, by tent. It could almost be Paradise, excpet for the water, which has to brought from a distance, cause the ocean is very salty.